Mastering Clothing Measurements: A Fashion Designer's Guide
Designing clothes that fit perfectly is both an art and a science. For aspiring and seasoned fashion designers, understanding clothing measurements is one of the most important parts of being a designer. Not only does it ensure a flattering fit, but it also guarantees customer satisfaction and reduces returns. Here's a guide to the key measurements typically taken for different types of clothing.
The Importance of Accurate Measurements
Accurate measurements are the backbone of clothes that fit well because without them, even the most beautifully designed garments can fall short. Whatever you design, you want to ensure that garments fit as intended and enhance the wearer’s comfort and confidence. Inaccuracies on the other hand can lead to ill-fitting clothes, customer dissatisfaction, and high return rates.
Precise measurements also help in maintaining consistency across different sizes so that people know whether a size runs small, accurate fit, or large. This is important for brands that offer a wide range of sizes because customers want to be confident that they can rely on the brand's sizing to be accurate.
Measuring Tools
Before getting into the specifics of taking measurements, you need to have the right tools. Here are some must-haves for every designer’s toolkit.
Measuring Tape⎯A flexible measuring tape is a must. It allows for accurate measurement of curves and contours. (We prefer this fiberglass one as it doesn’t stretch over time like cheaper plastic ones do).
Rulers and Yardsticks⎯These are useful for measuring flat surfaces and ensuring straight lines. We recommend clear ones with graph lines, like this graph ruler.
Dress Forms⎯Adjustable dress forms can be invaluable for taking measurements and fitting garments. Alvanon is the industry leader when it comes to these.
3D Digital Avatars–These days brands are using digital tools to streamline their processes. You can now purchase 3D avatars to be used as digital dress forms!
Notepad and Pencil⎯Always have these on hand to jot down measurements and notes.
Also, double-check your measurements to ensure accuracy. It’s better to take a few extra minutes to re-measure than to make costly mistakes. Investing in high-quality tools will save you time and ensure precision. Measure twice, cut once as they say!
Key Body Measurements
Understanding which measurements are essential is the first step in creating well-fitting garments. Here are some key measurements every designer should be familiar with.
Bust⎯Measure around the fullest part of the bust, keeping the tape level and snug but not tight.
Waist⎯Find the natural waistline which is typically the narrowest part of the torso and measure around it.
Hips⎯Measure around the fullest part of the hips, usually about 8 inches below the waist.
Shoulder Width⎯Measure from the edge of one shoulder to the edge of the other, passing over the back.
Back Length⎯Measure from the base of the neck to the natural waistline.
Sleeve Length⎯Measure from the shoulder seam down to the wrist, with the arm down and relaxed, with a slight bend.
Armhole⎯Measure around the fullest part of the armhole.
How to Measure Different Garment Types
Different garments require different measurements. Here’s how to measure for tops, dresses, pants, and skirts.
Tops and Blouses
When designing tops and blouses, focus on bust, waist, shoulder width, and sleeve length. Also when measuring the length you need to measure from the shoulder seam down to the desired hemline and for the neckline, measure around the base of the neck for collared designs.
Dresses
When measuring for dresses, you’ll need to combine measurements from both top and bottoms. For a full-length dress, measure from the shoulder seam down to the desired hemline. Then for the bust, waist, and hips, ensure these measurements are accurate for a fitted look. However, consider the style of the dress when taking measurements, as different styles may require additional measurements.
Pants and Skirts
For bottoms, focus on waist, hips, and inseam measurements. When measuring the inseam, measure from the crotch down to the desired hem of the pants and measure the outseam from the waist down to the desired hem. Accurate inseam and outseam measurements ensure that pants and shorts fit well and are comfortable to wear.
Common Measurement Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
Even experienced designers can make mistakes when taking measurements. Here are some common errors and how to avoid them.
Measuring Over Clothing
Always measure over undergarments or tight-fitting clothing. Measuring over bulky clothing can result in inaccurate measurements.
Misreading the Tape Measure
Make sure you’re reading the measuring tape correctly. It’s easy to misread the numbers, especially if the tape is twisted, upside down or not held level. Some tape measures show inches on one side and centimeters on the other, so of course make sure you’re using the correct units as well.
Inconsistent Measurements
Ensure consistency by using the same measuring method every time. This helps maintain accuracy across different garments and sizes. When you note down the measurement you’ve taken, also make a descriptive note on how you took the measurement. E.g. Across bicep circumference (1cm from armhole).
The Role of Fit Models in Clothing Design
Fit models can help when measuring for your designs fit well on real bodies. They provide feedback on fit and comfort, helping you make necessary adjustments. You’ll be able to see what your garment looks like when the wearer moves, reaches, sits and bends.
Selecting the Right Fit Model
Look for a fit model whose body measurements closely match the median measurements of your intended customers as stated in your brand size chart. A versatile fit model can wear a variety of garment styles and still look comfortable and stylish.
At a minimum you’ll need one fit model in your “base” size. This is the size that you start your patterns and samples in. If you’re making clothing and you sell your designs in more than one size, you’ll likely want to check the fit of multiple sizes. This can be expensive for new brands, but at a minimum you’ll want to check at least 1 of your smaller/smallest sizes and 1 of your larger/largest size, to give you an idea of how you are doing across the range.
Adjusting Patterns for Different Sizes
Before you start adjusting or grading patterns, you need to understand the standard sizes. These sizes serve as a baseline from which modifications are made. Typically, specific sizes for categories are small, medium, large, and extra-large, but each category has its specific measurements. Understanding these measurements helps in making precise adjustments.
The Impact of Fabric Choice on Fit
Different fabrics behave differently, affecting the fit of your garments. No matter how stunning a design may be, poor fit can ruin the entire look. Fabric choice is directly linked to achieving the perfect fit. Different fabrics have distinct characteristics, such as stretch, weight, and texture, which influence how a garment fits on the body.
Stretch and Elasticity
Stretch is a critical factor when considering fabric for fitted garments. Fabrics with high elasticity, like spandex or lycra blends, allow for a snug fit that moves with the body. This makes them ideal for activewear, swimwear, and body-hugging dresses. Conversely, fabrics with little to no stretch, such as woven cotton or linen, require precise tailoring to ensure a good fit.
Weight and Drape
The weight of the fabric affects how it drapes over the body. Lightweight fabrics like chiffon or silk flow and are perfect for creating soft, feminine silhouettes. Heavier fabrics like wool or denim offer structure and are better suited for tailored garments such as suits or jackets. Designers must consider the end-use of the garment and choose a fabric that will enhance its intended fit.
Texture and Feel
The texture of the fabric influences both the aesthetic and comfort of the garment. Smooth fabrics like satin provide a sleek, elegant look, while textured fabrics like tweed add visual interest and dimension. The feel of the fabric against the skin is also important; comfortable fabrics like cotton or jersey are preferred for everyday wear, while luxurious fabrics like velvet are reserved for special occasions.
Accurate measurements are essential for creating garments that fit well and look great. Remember, practice makes perfect. The more you measure, the better you’ll get at it.
For further templates, forms, manufacturing and fabric suppliers directory, check out our resources page. Download our example tech packs, we have lots of measurements with diagrams in the examples.